Corsica
While in Corsica, pay special attention to these items as they are local specialties. Rock Lobster, Massive Seabream, tomatoes, zuccini, eggplants, peaches, clementines, figs, boar, kid, veal, pigeon, thrush, charcuterie,chestnuts, olives, olive oils and local cheeses. This island produces over 250 tons of amazing olive oil every year.
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Markets-
U Stazzu
One of the best is U Stazzu in Napoleon's hometown of Ajaccio. Here, charcutier Paul Marcaggi sells the superb Corsican sausages and hams he makes in the small village of Bocognano from the meat of black free-range Corsican pigs, which live on a diet of roots, chestnuts and acorns. The fifth generation of his family to raise pigs and practice the butcher's trade, Marcaggi is well-known in Corsica for his defense of traditionally produced charcuterie. "The only real Corsican charcuterie is produced from Corsican pork," he says, referring to the fact that many commercial producers use less expensive pork imported from mainland France.
The produce dangling from a wooden rail overhead in his shop proves his point; it has a succulence and gently gamey taste that simply doesn't compare to the industrial product. Marcaggi produces all of the classics of Corsican charcuterie, including lonzu (smoked pork fillet), coppa (made from pork ribs), prisuttu (aged, cured ham) and figatelli (a sausage made from pork heart and liver), along with other sausages made from the meat of wild boars. His shop also carries many of the other staples of the Corsican table, including brocciu, a ricotta-like fresh cheese made from ewe's or goat's milk; tome de brebis, a soft sheep's milk cheese; U Pecurino, a Corsican version of Pecorino; and niolo, an aged ewe's milk cheese. There is a fine selection of honey and preserves (Corsica is known for its citrus fruit, especially clementines and cedrats, a lemon-like fruit), an array of excellent jams and marmalades, some of the finest olive oil in the world, and chestnut flour.
U Stazzu, 1 rue Bonaparte, Ajaccio. Tel. (33) 4-95-51-10-80.
For many centuries, Corsicans lived on bread made from chestnut flour, and the island's chestnut groves were considered vital to its self-sufficiency. "As long as we have chestnuts, we'll always have bread," said the Corsican patriot Pascal Paoli, which may explain why chestnut cultivation was discouraged after the French took control, the official pretext being that living on a crop that required little effort led to "weak and immoral character." Recently, however, a new generation of Corsican chefs who prize the island's produce have started using the output of the few remaining chestnut flour mills, and you'll find chestnut flour crepes and pastries in some of the best restaurants.
They are also reinventing classics of the Corsican kitchen (which was strongly influenced by centuries of Italian occupation), such as ravioli or cannelloni stuffed with brocciu cheese; Corsican soup, made with red beans, onions and herbs and garnished with cheese; aziminu, Corsican-style bouillabaisse; priverunata, a sauté of goat meat with peppers; and fiadone, or flan, seasoned with orange-flower water.
Renowned since the days of the Roman Empire, Corsican wines have suffered from an uneven reputation, but are now also enjoying a renaissance. The island has eight A.O.C. wine regions (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, a French government designation based on precise geographical limits and a strict set of rules defining acceptable ingredients, prohibited additives, etc.). Among the better known are the powerful but elegant wines of the Patrimonio A.O.C., especially its red wines made from the Corsican Niellucciu grape, a cousin of the Italian Sangiovese cépage; as well as the gently sweet wines of the Cap Corse region of northern Corsica produced from Muscat grapes, and the white wines from the Calvi region, made with Vermentinu grapes (Vermentino in Italian), with the Alzipratu vineyard being among the best- known producers.
The main fish market is in a public hall on the Quai Napoleon near the marina
Corsica offers a great variety of gastronomic delights including maquis-flavoured honey, a wide range of chestnut-based products, charcuterie and cheeses. The best place to sample and purchase local produce is at the lively colourful markets in the main towns.
L'Ile Rousse
There is a local market every morning in the covered market place (7am - 12pm) with stalls selling fish and seafood, local charcuterie, cheeses, wines, honey and locally grown fruit and vegetables.
Propriano
There is a daily indoor market every morning on Rue Pandolfi where you can buy locally grown fruit and vegetables.
Ajaccio
It's well worth visiting the daily market on Place César-Campinchi which is one of the largest fresh produce markets on the island and although not cheap, the quality is second to none. Alongside bright freshly cut flowers and fruit and vegetables laid out under striped awnings are stalls selling delicacies such as fig jam, honey, wild boar sauces and ewe's milk cheeses as well as Muscat wines and myrtle liqueurs.
Bastia
The fresh produce market takes place every morning (except Monday) on the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville with stalls that sell vegetables, fish, Corsican specialities and even clothes.